Sunday, August 14, 2011

Photo sew-along using the TWIST pattern

While there are photos in the instructions of this pattern I had a few people ask for more pictures to follow along to when putting this pattern together.  So here you go!

First step is to cut out all your pieces.  I like to put my inner pieces grouped together and my outer pieces grouped together as each set needs something done to them before sewing the inner and outer layers together.

 Now that my pieces are all grouped I like to serge the bottom of the loop fabric for the tummy panel.  You don't have to do this as this edge will not unravel.  I think it looks more finished this way.
 On the back leak guard piece you will sew on your laundry tabs if you are making the diaper hook and loop like I am in this example.  Use a zigzag stitch or a straight stitch.  I prefer a zigzag because I feel it holds up better in the long run from repeated use.
 Next you will pin and sew the leak guards to the inner poly layer.  The seam allowance is 3/8th of an inch here just like on the rest of the diaper.
 You can leave the edges unfinished, pink them with pinking shears or use a serger to finish them.  I serge them.
 If you serge the edges here trim off about an 1/8th of an inch.
 This is an optional step as well but I really like how it looks when this part is top-stitched.
Now this part you have some wiggle room with placement.  You can have your opening a bit lower than mine but I like to have the top edge of my welt pocket piece 3/4 of an inch below the top edge of the leak guard.
 To make the welt pocket opening you will stitch a narrow rectangle on your piece.  Mark in a half inch on each short edge of the pocket piece.  These marks are where the short sides of your opening will be.  Starting at one side of the piece stitch along the folded up edge.  When you reach the second mark, pivot your layer making sure that your needle is in the down position, stitch two stitches and pivot again.  Continue stitching straight across the piece until you reach the first mark.  Pivot, stitch two stitches, pivot again and stitch two or three stitches on top of the starting stitches then lock your stitches.
 What it looks like from the back side.  My rectangle got a touch out of shape.  If you stitch slowly and keep everything lined up your rectangle will be more perfect.

 Fold the layer in half and snip in the center of the rectangle all the way to each edge.  Take care not to snip the threads on the short ends.

 Now you tuck in the top part of the piece down into the opening.  Fold in the edges and pin to secure.
 On the back side make sure the ends are nice and neat, pin to secure.
 Stitch the folded edges.  Make sure that you stitch down far enough to catch the folded edges on the back side.

 If you are making this diaper to sell you will need to add your CPSIA compliant label.  I like to sew mine in right at the back edge of this pocket.  I tuck the raw ends of the label under the seam at the PUL and the microfleece and stitch down with a zigzag stitch.
 Repeat the above steps with the back pocket opening only come down further, more like 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches from the edge.
 Once your back pocket opening is complete pin along your marks for the gusset casing.
 Stitch 3/8th of an inch from the folded edge to create your casings.  Leave both ends open so you can thread in your elastic later.
 Now that your inner layer is complete it is time to finish the outer layer.  Sew your loop fabric or loop tape to the front of the diaper now.  If using loop tape leave 1/2 an inch on each side so you can turn and top-stitch without loop tape in the seam.  If you are applying snaps do this now and be sure to re-enforce your snaps with a scrap of PUL.
 Add your rise snaps if you are making a OS and now it's time to pin the pieces together.  To keep the gusset casings out of the way I like to pin it down in the center.
 Now you are all pinned together and ready to sew it up.
 Since you have two pocket openings to turn the diaper through you do not need to leave an opening.  Stitching PUL to PUL can be tricky so use a walking foot, Teflon foot, tissue paper, or wax paper if you need to.  I do not have a walking foot or a Teflon foot and I dislike sewing on paper and having to gently pull it off so I lengthen my stitch length and go slow pulling gently on the fabric so the machine is not easing my bottom layer and creating ripples and tucks in the top layer.  Make sure your needle will stop in the down position so you can easily readjust as need be!
 Once you have it all sewn up add in your elastic and you are almost done!  Make sure to trim all curves and corners.  Turn right side out and top-stitch the entire diaper making sure to stitch around the elastic areas to case them.
 You will take your gusset elastic and put a safety pin on one end and thread it through a pocket opening.

 I like to put a straight pin at the mark on the end with the point up so when I pull it through it will stop at the end of the casing stitches.
 When I hit the end I push the pin up to mark where I need to tack down the elastic.
 Both ends are now secure with straight pins and ready to be tacked down.
 Elastic securely tacked down.
 If you are using hook and loop I like to tack the edges together on my tabs prior to sewing them on to keep them from slipping around.
 Sew your hook and loop tabs on to the diaper.  You don't have to have them extended.  I make them this way because I like how it looks.  You could even just use squares of hook and loop on the wings to create your crossover tabs if you don't want extended tabs.
 All done!  Toss it in the wash to rinse off our sewing marker and dry it on hot to seal the holes in the PUL then stuff and put on your baby!


  1. Excellent, now the directions make much more sense. You should put this in the pattern directions.

  2. Glad it helped you! Hmmm....I could change the instructions to mirror this sew-along...until I decide I will make sure to include a link to this just in case someone needs more step by step photos!

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